Altitude: 6,311ft + 4,139ft
3/21/2024
“Are you sure you want to ski off the tram?” asked the mountain hosts at the bottom. “We can handle it” we replied having no idea what we were getting into
We boarded the tram with a hundred other guests at Jackson Hole. The tram was a rite of passage. In 9 minutes, it whisks you up 4,139 ft to the top of Rendezvous mountain and the highest point in the resort. At the top, the Rendezvous bowl beckons.
Skiing off the top, even on a bluebird day, is not for the faint of heart. As the tram reaches the top, the operator warns that Rendezvous Bowl is for expert skiers only, and passengers are welcome to ride the tram down. We knew that we were not going to have ideal conditions and it would be challenging, but we felt our skills were up to the mark.
The Tram Ride
The tram left the station and began swaying violently from side to side in the wind. I was lucky to be standing at the window and was able to keep my lunch down. As we approached the first support pole, we stopped to let the swaying die down. I wondered what it took for the tram to be closed. The wind was currently 30mph. After a moment, we continued on our way. The swaying was less but still unnerving. It’s a long 9 min ride. Near the top, you get a prime view of Corbet’s Couloir. One of the most famous ski runs in the US. On a day like today, unsurprisingly, it was closed for safety reasons.
We docked at the summit. Grateful for the steady ground that awaited us. Stepping off the tram, we remembered the warnings of the mountain hosts and headed towards the run warily. Another pair of mountain hosts greeted us and we asked their opinion of the run. “It’s s***” one said. “And that’s putting it lightly,” the other added. Great… what were we getting into. Knowing us, there was no backing down. For us, the tram only went one way.
Starting the Run
We reached the top of the run and the slope dropped off quickly on our left. As we strapped in, we practically blew off the edge. Between the wind and icy conditions, there was no traction. Eager to get some respite from the squalls, we dropped in. Immediately, I knew it was going to be a wild, untamed ride. The snow beneath our skis was hard, icy, and unforgiving. We had learned a new term for snow conditions, “coral reef” and there was no better way to describe it.
Looking around, I could see the whole bowl. There were maybe 20 other skiers working their way down. Everyone was struggling. No level of experience could prepare you for these conditions. Some were sliding down on their butts, others on snowboards just scraped down the whole way, no attempt at making turns.
Making Turns
I did my best to remember every tactic I had been taught and attempted my first turn. I put my body in position, flattened my skis to start sliding, slowly started the turn, and finished it quickly. Exiting the turn, I leaned toward the slope to dig my edges in. However, there was nothing for them to dig into. Nothing but the hard, icy, crust. It may as well have been an ice rink. My skis scraped along for much longer than was comfortable before finally slowing to a stop. I looked up, I looked down, my one turn had not gotten me much progress. I was still barely below the top. There was a long ways to go.
I took a few deep breaths and attempted another turn. Turn by turn, my confidence grew, and I began working my way down. Falling was not an option. Slow and steady, only when I had recovered from the last one would I take another turn.
Every so often, I would look around to see how the others were progressing. Teddy, the best skier in our group, made it down pretty quickly and was waiting at the bottom of the bowl. Matt was one of the snowboarders who scraped down the whole way with no turns and was also waiting at the bottom. Jake was keeping pace with me and we checked in with each other periodically. Jamie was a little ways up from us working through his own turns.
Working Our Way Down
At about the halfway point, the slope leveled out ever so slightly, but it was enough to make each turn less harrowing. I still didn’t dare to link any turns together but my recovery period in between each one was shorter. At last, I arrived at the bottom of the bowl with Jake and Jamie close behind. There was a sense of relief among the group at having made it down. We tried to put the experience into words, but it was difficult to wrap my head around what we had just done.
None of us wanted to hang out too long. We still had a lot of skiing to get down the rest of the mountain. However, the worst was over now that we were out of Rendezvous Bowl. We picked some easier routes and worked our way down the mountain to the base. I felt a huge sense of accomplishment at taking on the challenge and knew my skiing was better because of it. However, I knew once was enough, and unless conditions improved dramatically, I would not be skiing off the tram again.
Leave a Reply